Undiscovered Tuscany - Far from Chiantishire
The delights of southern Tuscany
or ‘Chiantishire’ as it has been christened have been well documented but fewer
people are aware of Lunigiana in the northern part of the region that offers
not only breathtaking views and tranquil surroundings but an area of Italy that
is steeped in historical and literary interest that will captivate and delight
the discerning traveller.
Lunigiana is the region of
northern Tuscany that protrudes into Liguria and Emilia to link the Apennines
with the craggy Apuan Alps providing a beautiful background to Tuscany’s
Mediterranean beaches. At every turn the traveller encounters a myriad of
stunning scenery and breathtaking views. Although Lunigiana remains
comparatively undiscoverd and unspoiled it is neither islolated nor remote,
since it is only 1 hour from Pisa and 90 minutes from Florence
Few tourists have penetrated the
cluster of little villages which straddle the Taverone valley linking the
mountains to the coast or the medieval hill towns which have a magic all of
their own. The rolling landscape is liberally sprinkled with castles of the
Malaspina and Medici eras. The villagers are warm and friendly and the trust
and generosity encountered in shops and bars is a delight.
The passing of time seems to have
left the many small villages and hamlets virtually unchanged and this provides
the key to the immense charm and allure that the way of life in the region
evokes. One feels privileged to observe rural Italian life, in all it’s many
forms, continue in much the same way that it has for many hundreds of years.
The shops in the villages are full of local produce and the local trattorie
provide inexpensive dining out and a chance to sample the culinary delights of
traditional Tuscan cooking. Italian is almost exclusively spoken in the area so
a phrasebook, hand gestures and lots of smiles will usually get you what you
want!
Less than 45 minutes drive away lies the Gulf of La Spezia, known as the Bay of
Poets, since Byron, Shelley and Keats played upon it’s shores around the old
fishing villages such as Lerici, San Terenzo and Portovenere. Lerici is now a
picturesque resort centred around the bustling harbour where you can buy a wide
variety of fresh shellfish or sample some of the local fish dishes at the
numerous bars and restaurants. It has hardly changed through the centuries, and
the castle which dominates the small harbour dates from the 12th century. From
Lerici you can take boats across the Gulf to the Cinque Terre, famous for it’s
vine terraced hills falling steeply to the sea below and it’s five perched
villages strung along the coast north of Portovenere - where you can enjoy a swim from one of the
beaches.
Taking a holiday in June, July and
August does of course guarantee hot weather and is overwhelmingly the most
popular season but during the Spring and Autumn the days are generally warm and
sunny (about 70 degrees), which makes sightseeing more comfortable. The variety
of wild flowers including rare orchids which can be seen when walking the hills
in April and May is truly amazing and the fireflies in June are a constant
source of fascination.
September and October are
interesting times to visit the area as it is the time of the ‘vendemia’ (grape
harvest) and the great annual funghi hunt. This is when the locals are out
looking for ‘porcini’ the delicious mushrooms which grow over night. These can
later be seen spread out on large baskets drying in the sun.